Taking a trip outside Antigua takes a bit of advance planning. We have to book a rental car through Orbitz a few days in advance to get a half decent rate. So we scheduled a trip to Volcán Pacaya for Sunday. Saturday morning I got a call from our guía (guide) asking if we could possibly make it out that afternoon because the lava was flowing. Unfortunately, we only had the car for Sunday. I said I hoped the lava would still be there the next morning.
Sunday morning, we had trouble finding our guide because we had no idea there were two entrances to the park and we were at the wrong one. Of course everyone we asked knew Carlitos. It’s a small village after all. After finding Carlitos, we parked the car in someone’s yard (we paid them Q25). I almost couldn’t get out of the car door because we were swarmed with kids wanting to rent us walking sticks. Eventually we agreed to get one from each kid for Q5.
In the village of San Francisco de Sales, the volcano is the big business. The locals have figured out pretty much anyway possible to make money off of it. For the first part of our walk we were accompanied by 3 people with horses. They call them Ubers. I think looking at us, they were convinced we would give up hiking and ride horses. I assured them we were going to walk, but they kept following us. Eventually two gave up. But one stuck with us and likely had hope because of the excessive number of rest stops we were taking. Sadie hadn’t eaten for about 24 hours because of stomach problems – so she wasn’t at her best. She soldiered on, so eventually he gave up too.
At the trailhead with our entourage of horses. 
Yep. they’re still with us, holding out hope. 
A view of Volcán Fuego and Volcán Agua
Since it’s an active volcano you can’t go to the summit. But we arrived to an area without trees with black lava rock covering the ground. We heard a sound similar to clinking plates. It was cooled lava rocks being pushed down the side of the lava flow. Periodically some lava would show itself until it cooled off and turned grey while pushing lava rocks that clinked to the bottom of a 20 foot embankement.
Standing in front of where the lava pushes rocks down the embankment. Don’t worry, they’re not that close – telephoto distortion.
Carlitos took us to where the lava was coming out of the ground. It was a very slow moving river about 4 feet wide. Over time the lava rock builds up a sort of levee, so we climbed up a little bit and were within a few feet of the flow. Carlitos got out a marshmallow and roasted one for Willa over the lava. Willa claims it was the best tasting marshmallow she’s had. Perhaps the volcanic gas adds some flavor.
Lava flow coming out of the ground. 
Carlitos roasting a marshmallow. 
The best marshmallow Willa has ever had.
It was definitely hot next to the lava. Mira’s shoe soles started melting a bit. The girls picked up a couple warm rocks to take as souvenirs.
One entrepreneur, set up a shop near the lava flow to sell jewelry made from lava rock. Imagine a gift shop in Mordor and you get a sense of what it’s like. Of course the girls each bought a necklace. How could we not?
We couldn’t delay too much, because it looked like rain was coming. The way down was faster but a bit hard on the knees and ankles. We’ve been a bit sore since. Hopefully if we come back with guests, the lava will be flowing then too.
Lava rock filled this ravine about a month ago. 
Kids getting their walking sticks back. 
Family photo with a chucho photobombing.
Los Gringos Aguacateros 