More visitors, volcanoes and a cooking class!

We have been so lucky and grateful to have so many great visitors this year!! Tara, Matt and Grace visited us over Thanksgiving, and this blog post is terribly late. Right after their visit, Sadie and I went back to MD (high school entrance exams), then we returned and went back to Spanish class for a week, then I was sick for a while, and then we had our next round of visitors. Well, you know how it goes! But I wanted to get back to this visit because these photos and experiences need to be shared.

We spent a few days in and around Antigua and one of the highlights here was Cerveceria Catorce. This is a favorite place of ours, a brewery with food, live music, and lovely grounds including a great playground and a great view of Volcan de Fuego. They also have a trolley that they drove down to Guatemala from Kansas or Nebraska and which they now use as a shuttle between the Cerveceria and Antigua.

Once at the Cerveceria, we didn’t see much of Willa and Grace who were checking out the playground.

Enjoying the ambiance

And then there’s the view. On a clear night, THIS is what you can see!

It’s only at night that we realize how much lava and fire comes with all that smoke!

We also took a trip to Lago Atitlan, which again is my favorite of all the places we have visited in Guatemala.

This was the first time we took a boat out on the lake and visited different villages.

Getting on the boat (Isabel) with Don Arturo
Santa Cruz, one of the many villages by the lake, accessible only by boat or footpath
Tuk-tuks in Santa Cruz
Hiking up to Santa Cruz. The road was very steep and there was a lot of complaining.
The photographer
The hills are so rugged, yet you can see the patchwork where it is cultivated.
Treats in San Juan, another village at the lake.
Willa and Grace spent a lot of time playing with a puppy they found near the dock.
San Juan is known for textiles and shopping. Sadie is in her happy place again.
It is common for the afternoons at the lake to be windy, which means that the ride back to Panajachel was a little choppy. It was pure joy for some of us to ride through those waves!
Coming back to our hotel. We stayed on the 15th floor in the middle of this building. These are the tallest structures by far at the lake.

The following day, Tara, Brett, Sadie and I went back across the lake to take a cooking class in San Pedro. We met our teacher and went to the market to buy everything we needed.

Starting the shopping trip. Anita knew the vendors well and tried to buy from many different people.
It was very crowded at the market but our sight lines were clear because we were about a head taller than everyone else!
Buying chicken
Chatting on the way to the Anita’s kitchen, starting to hear her amazing story.
Food is bought, aprons are donned, time to start chopping!
Anita was amazing; she had tasks for each of us, and then she would move us around to different tasks. We were busy the whole time.
Making guacamole
Toasting spices for pepian
Or maybe the horchata? We had so many dishes going on at once.
Look at that guacamole! This one had a lot of add-ins: cilantro, onions, tomatoes, and pineapple.
Assembling the dessert. We cooked plantain with some cinnamon, mashed it and then wrapped it in chocolate.
Chocolate-filled plantains
Ta-da! The finished product! Pepian, rice, guacamole, a masa-frijole wrap, plus horchata and dessert.

Anita started this business a few years ago when she was working for a tourist agency at the lake, and a visitor wanted to learn to make some Guatemalan dishes, but there wasn’t anything like that at the Lake. So Anita offered to show her how. And they must have had a wonderful time because this tourist then wrote a stellar review of Anita’s cooking class, even though it was only intended as a one-time thing. And soon afterwards someone else called her asking to book a cooking class, but she said that there wasn’t one. However, the review was so positive that she kept getting requests. At first she just did it on the side, but now she has a full-fledged business that supports her family plus several other women who she hires to help with clean up as well as some of the vendors at the market. Another amazing thing to me was that she learned English by interacting with North American tourists. Her English is quite good. She gave us instructions mostly in English, but when we sat down during the meal, we spoke mostly in Spanish. Tourism is definitely her lifeline however, we asked about the downside and she also spoke about the foreigners who have bought or leased a lot of the lakeside property for very low amounts because the local people don’t always understand how the property values have increased so much in a short time.

And while we were cooking up a storm, Matt, Grace and Willa were at the nature reserve by the hotel. It was so great that the next morning we all went back! The highlight was seeing the coatis. We could feed them bananas and they came right up to them because there was a hole in the fence. The kids were totally enthralled. (The next time we came, the hole had been repaired and you could no longer feed them. Maybe too many visitors got bitten?)

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